Get to Know Your Soil

Healthy soil is essential to the health and vigor of your garden. This About Your House introduces the basic soil properties that influence plant growth; outlines simple field tests to identify your soil condition and provides tips if you need to amend your soil.

Soil has eight basic properties. Knowing your soil type (that is, its texture) and its other properties is important for three reasons:

• It will enable you to pick the most suitable plants for your soil — which is usually more ecologically sound and less costly than trying to redesign your soil for unsuitable plants
• It helps you determine whether your soil needs amendments
• It can help you make informed decisions about other landscape projects, such as water features and rain gardens

Note that, depending on your yard’s size, topography and past uses, soil properties may vary in different locations in your yard.

A soil amendment is any material added to a soil to improve its condition, for example, its fertility, pH or structure, to provide a better environment for your plants.

Soil Properties and Field Tests

Soil horizons and depth

A relatively undisturbed soil viewed in profile typically reveals, from the surface down, an organic layer, a topsoil layer (the “A” horizon) and two layers or horizons below.

Soil profiles vary considerably from one locale or region to the next, depending on geology, hydrology and climate. On sites with a history of construction or agricultural use, mixing, tilling, filling or excavating may have significantly altered some horizons.

If your soils are relatively undisturbed, be careful not to overmix the layers when working the soil. Overmixing can bury organic matter and healthy soil organisms too deeply, which can harm other soil properties.

Soil depth is the depth of the soil above bedrock. Soils more than 75 cm (30 in.) deep offer better growing conditions than shallower soils and can support a greater variety of plants. Some tree species, such as oaks and hickories, send out long taproots, so they need deep soil. However, many plants are well adapted to shallow soils. If you live in a region with shallow soils, confirm that species are suitable when selecting plants.

Organic matter and humus

Humus is produced from the decomposition of raw organic matter, such as leaves, branches and lawn clippings, which accumulates on the soil surface. Decomposition returns vital nutrients to the soil for use by living vegetation. Humus is later carried down to the “A” horizon (topsoil layer) by means that include water, insects and earthworms.

A soil’s humus content has a direct bearing on its fertility, structure, porosity, moisture and drainage. In sandy soil, added humus can improve water- and nutrient-holding capacity. In clay soils, it can improve aeration and drainage. Repeated cultivation can deplete your soil’s humus content by accelerating decomposition or burying organic matter too deeply to decompose.

Humus requirements can vary significantly from one plant species to the next. It is possible to increase humus content by adding organic matter, such as compost, manure or decayed leaves. However, it may make more sense to plant species that are adapted to infertile soils that have lower humus content, if you have those conditions.

Field test: Humus and Organic Matter

Examine the surface and the “A” horizon in the pit you dug for the soil horizon test, or dig a small pit at least 30 cm (1ft) deep. Is there a layer of organic matter and humus at the surface? How deep and how dark is the next layer (the “A” horizon)? The darker the soil, the more humus it contains and the more fertile it is. Hardened, compacted layers of soil generally indicate low humus content and low fertility. Sandy soils are naturally lighter and lower in nutrients than clay or loam.

Soil texture

Soil texture is the relative proportion of sand, silt and clay particles that make up a given soil. These particles are graded according to their diameter, with sand particles being the coarsest and clay particles the finest. Soils are typically rated by their texture (Table 1).

A soil’s texture directly influences its nutrient content, moisture and drainage capacity. Clay soils tend to be fertile, but are often wet and poorly drained. Sandy soils drain easily but can be drought-prone and infertile. Loams retain moisture and are fertile and friable (crumbly and easy-to-work). Loam soil contains about 40 per cent sand, 40 per cent silt and 20 per cent clay, along with plenty of humus. Many plants tolerate a variety of soil textures, while some have more specific soil requirements.

Soil Structure and Porosity

Soil structure is the size and arrangement of particles in a soil. This arrangement determines the porosity of the soil, that is, the volume of air between particles.

Healthy soil with good structure may contain up to 25 per cent air. Structure and porosity are functions of several key factors, including soil texture, the burrowing activities of earthworms and insects and the presence of bacteria, fungi and other micro-organisms. Adequate porosity is essential for the gas exchange between the root zone and atmosphere, to contribute to a capability to absorb, drain, and retain water, and to enable roots to easily penetrate the soil to access nutrients.

Compaction eliminates the vital air spaces between soil particles and is the single most significant impact on soil structure and porosity. Although most plants prefer soil that is porous, some species can grow in compacted soils.

Soil Moisture

Soil moisture depends on climate, topography and other soil characteristics, and is typically graded as wet, moist or dry. Some plant species are highly adaptable and can tolerate a range of moisture conditions. Others have very specific moisture requirements. While it is possible to irrigate plants that need more moisture than your soil can provide, it is better to select plants suited to your soil’s moisture.

Soil Fertility

Soil fertility is the soil’s capability of storing and releasing plant nutrients. The main nutrients are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N, P, K), along with a range of trace elements. Fertility depends in part on soil texture. Clay soils are generally more fertile than sandy soils, partly because of the tendency of some nutrients to bond to clay particles. Fertility is also directly proportional to the amount of humus and organic matter in the soil.

Fertility requirements usually vary from one plant species to another. Some, such as certain woodland wildflowers, require deep, rich soils. Others, such as prairie or meadow species, prefer infertile soils and will develop spindly stems and foliage in deep, humus-rich soils at the expense of flowers and fruit.

Soil pH

pH is the measure of a soil’s acidity or alkalinity. Most plants do well in soil with a neutral pH of 6.6 to 7.4, or in slightly acid soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Some plants have very specific needs for soil that is acidic (for example, azaleas, rhododendrons) or alkaline (for example, chrysanthemums, columbine).

Always check soil pH before selecting plants. Although many gardening books give plant pH requirements, you may need some additional research for specific species. While it is possible to change a soil’s pH, it generally makes more sense to select plants that are adapted to your soil’s pH. The exception is soil that is so alkaline or acidic it cannot support any plants. Concrete surfaces, salt spray, intensive irrigation and other factors can increase soil pH and create conditions that are hostile to many plants.

Life in the Soil

A great many life forms — from microscopic fungi, bacteria, algae, protozoa and nematodes, to larger creatures such as springtails, ants, earthworms and moles — live in healthy soils. They contribute directly to the health and vigour of plants. Bacteria, for instance, decompose organic matter and release the nutrients essential for plant growth. Earthworms, ants and other insects, through burrowing, aerate the soil and carry humus from the surface to lower layers. Mycorrhizal fungi form symbiotic (mutually beneficial) relationships with the roots of certain plants, helping them get water and nutrients.

Improper use of pesticides can seriously affect your soil’s microbial community, as can repeated cultivation. A soil depleted of its microscopic flora and fauna loses its ability to decompose organic matter and becomes less fertile. It will have poorer structure and porosity, and be less hospitable to plants than a soil rich with life. A diversity of beneficial organisms can also help control organisms that can harm certain plants.

Chemical Tests

While the field tests described in this About Your House can help you gather basic information about your soil, a chemical analysis may be necessary for more accurate information about texture, fertility, and pH, among other properties. Contact a local garden centre, soil testing laboratory or provincial agriculture ministry or department for more information about testing your soil. Home testing kits are also available. For reliability, use a higher cost kit. Laboratory results are generally the most accurate.

Amending Your Soil

When field tests are completed, you will have a basic understanding of your soil’s properties. The next step is to select plants that are suited to your soil and site conditions, such as shade and anticipated rainfall. Local nurseries, conservation agencies, plant catalogues, books and Web sites can help you create a suitable plant list. Refer also to the plant list in CMHC’s Landscape Guide for Canadian Homes.

Although selecting plants suited to your soil minimizes the need for amendments, there are situations where amendments may be unavoidable. These situations include areas in which soil health has been seriously compromised; food gardens or other specialized plantings that may not be as easily tailored to your soils; and, areas in which even well-suited plants are not thriving. Amendments can also be helpful when establishing new plantings.

Table 2 sets out some common soil problems and non-synthetic solutions. As a renewable and readily available resource, compost is a particularly desirable amendment. The preferred approach is to plant suitable species, but you can work in amendments, or use a combination of the two approaches, depending on site conditions and your goals.

Amend your soil selectively, only where needed, rather than amending soil over the whole yard whether it needs help or not. Work the amendment material into the soil, rather than leaving it on the surface (Figure 3). This helps spread it around, prevents drying, particularly of organic matter and avoids harmful concentrations. It also supports vigorous plants by encouraging roots to spread rather than concentrate only in the amended area.

References and Resources

• Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation. 2004. Landscape Guide for Canadian Homes. CMHC: Ottawa.
• Daigle, Jean-Marc and Donna Havinga. 1996. Restoring Nature’s Place: A Guide to Naturalizing Ontario Parks and Greenspace. Ecological Outlook and Ontario Parks Association: Schomberg.
• Denholm, K.A. and L.W. Schut.1993. Field Manual for Describing Soils in Ontario. Centre for Soil Resource Evaluation: Guelph, Ont.
• Hynes, Erin. 1994. Rodale’s Successful Organic Gardening: Improving the Soil. Rodale: Emmaus, Pennsylvania.

Roof Maintenance

The best preventative maintenance that one can do is perform semi-annual inspections to identify and solve problems as they occur. Roofs get more abuse from the elements than any other part of the building, and preventative maintenance is a key element to saving money on your roof by providing a longer service life. This section will provide some general guidelines to help keep your roof in good working condition for as long as possible.

Asphalt Shingles

• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
• If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
• Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. One dab on either side should do.
• Replace any damaged shingles.
• Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using
• Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International. It works very well. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar product afterward.
• Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
• Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

Built-Up and Modified Bitumen Roofs

• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles.
• If your roof has a gravel surfacing and there are some bare spots present, clean the bare spot thoroughly using a broom and a wire brush if necessary. Be sure to remove all loose dirt generated from brushing and sweeping. Blow on the area if need be. Spread a thin layer of asphalt roof cement (mastic) over the bare area about 1/8 inch thick. Gather some loose gravel from other areas of the roof and embed it in the roof cement.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
• Check for blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
• Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. Click here to see how.
• Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
• Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

Wood Shakes and Shingles

• Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. If your roof is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips.
• Keep all fungus and algae from the surface. Install zinc control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
• Check the mortar on the chimney, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.
• Check the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Manufactured by Hocking International. This stuff works very well.

Single-Ply Roofs

• Remove all debris from the roof surface. This includes vegetation, dirt, loose nails and screws, unused equipment, etc. With a single-ply roof, you have only one layer of protection, so if a nail head gets stepped on and penetrates that one thin layer, then eventually there will be a leak.
• Check the seams. If they are coming apart, then they need to be patched as soon as possible.
• Check all flashings and make sure that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them.
• Check the edge metal. Make sure that it isn’t separating at the seams. If it is, then the repairs need to be made as soon as possible. This can usually be done easily by yourself or by any local qualified contractor.
• Check for bubbles and blisters in the roof. DO NOT STEP ON OR PUNCTURE THEM. Call a local qualified contractor to patch them.
• Clean out and refill any pitch pockets where the filler is cracked and/or shrinking. Click here to see how.
• Keep all gutter free of debris. Make sure that the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them.
• Water test any sump drains twice per year. Once in the spring and once in the fall before winter sets in. If they don’t drain properly, call a plumber and get them working properly. Drains will often leak if they are holding water.
• Trim back any overhanging tree branches.
• Check all caulking and sealants on flashings and copings. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking such Vulkem, NP-1, or equivalent.
• Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it’s damaged or deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Any mason can perform this work.

Home Improvement Tips

Spring Clean Up – Where to Begin

Purge, Purge, Purge: If you don’t use it, get rid of it. It’s not too late to plan a garage sale but they do take time and effort. Sometimes it’s faster and easier to give items to charity or there are Junk Removal Services such as…

Landscaping – Choosing the Right Trees and Shrubs

Trees can serve numerous landscape functions including beautification, adding privacy, reducing traffic noise, providing shade and energy conservation. Early Spring is the best time of year to transplant trees and shrubs, while they are dormant.

For complete article www.housesmartcentre.com

Spring Maintenance

Spring household maintenance put out by Rona

Now that this winter is a thing of the past, it’s important to take advantage of spring’s arrival to go over the house with a fine-toothed comb. Snow, ice, cold and the wind have possibly, without your knowledge, caused damage to your home. To know for sure, it’s necessary to proceed with a full inspection of your home.

Spring Maintenance

Give your home a fresh look for spring

(ARA) – Spring cleaning has become a ritual in homes across America. But as families focus on decluttering closets and revitalizing their indoor spaces, many overlook simple, inexpensive outdoor projects that can give a home a real “facelift” and make it look and feel like new.

“Some homeowners shy away from outdoor projects because they think they’re difficult, time-consuming or expensive. Nothing could be further from the truth,” says Rust-Oleum home improvement expert and PaintIdeas.com blogger, Angie. “There are some easy, inexpensive projects that can enhance a family’s enjoyment of their outdoor space and significantly improve their home’s curb appeal so it makes a welcoming first impression for neighbors and friends.”

• Clean the exterior. It may seem basic, but it’s amazing how much better, and how much newer a home can look after a good cleaning. And with the availability of cleaners that can be applied with pump sprayers and hose mount applicators, it’s never been easier to give a house a “facelift” without power washing or costly repainting.If your house is wearing a coat of mold, mildew, dirt and grime, try a cleaner like Jomax House Cleaner and Mildew Killer. It removes the most stubborn stains without scrubbing and is safe to use near plants, grass and shrubs.
• Refresh the driveway. Sealing an asphalt driveway was once considered a messy, smelly and time consuming project, but that’s changed. Thanks to the evolution of new water-based technologies, restoring a driveway to its “like new” appearance is easy for even inexperienced do-it-yourselfers. Epoxyshield Blacktop Coating, with its advanced acrylic formula, brings asphalt back to its original jet black color and makes it look brand new again.
• Spruce up your deck. During the warm spring and summer months, many families spend more time on their deck than in the living room. But both wood and composite decks need to be cleaned regularly to prevent deterioration and look their best. Biodegradable deck cleaners like Wolman DeckBrite excel at removing ground-in dirt and mildew stains without whitening or damaging the surface like chlorine bleach can – and they’re easy to use.
• “Upcycle” your outdoor furniture. Has your outdoor furniture seen better days? Don’t replace it, “upcycle.” You’d be surprised how easy and inexpensive it is to refurbish patio furniture with just a few cans of spray paint. Today’s spray paints come in a full palette of colors – and exciting new textures and finishes – so you can personalize your outdoor space while saving your old furniture from the landfill. Try Rust-Oleum Universal spray paint in Hammered Copper to give your patio furniture urban style while hiding dents and scratches. Or, “dress” it in a classic color like Painter’s Touch Ultra Cover 2X Espresso. One can of 2X delivers twice the coverage so the paint goes further and projects get done faster.

For more project ideas and product information, visit www.rustoleum.com. Or, get inspired by Angie’s newest spring projects at www.paintideas.com.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

Creative Storage Solutions

Now that the holidays are over, it’s time for the annual hunt for additional storage space. Move.com has a good list of simple steps to make use of surprising places. There are many ways to find space where none seems to exist. The key is to look and then look again. Glance behind a door, look above the window, peek below a table and put a cabinet in a place you never considered before. Instead of looking around at eye level, look up and down. Think vertical. The air above you is fertile ground for storage.

Fundamentally Furnaces

Maintenance Tips for a Gas Furnace

Gas furnaces are relatively easy to operate and maintain, but they do require regular maintenance to stay in good condition. Gas furnaces can be dangerous if they are in need of maintenance and you neglect them; for instance if there is a gas leak it could be very dangerous if not.

1. Check for gas leaks

Gas leaks on gas furnaces are easy to spot, you can tell from gas build up on the floor or from the smell of gas around the furnace area. Gas leaks require a professional to fix the furnace to ensure the safety of the unit.

2. Thermostat working properly?

Have you noticed the house is either really warm or really cold, but the thermostat is set at a comfortable temperature? When a thermostat is not working properly the furnace will not heat the house properly, which makes the unit very inefficient.

3. Control valve turned open?

Is your furnace producing no heat and you can’t figure out what’s wrong? A common problem when getting a gas furnace to run properly is that the control valve is turned off, if the valve is turned off the furnace will not produce heat.

4. When have you changed the air filter?

Regularly changing the air filter is an important part of gas furnace maintenance that should be addressed regularly. Air filters can be purchased at almost any hardware store, and they are not expensive. A dirty air filter will make the gas furnace produce less heat and make it incredibly inefficient.

5. Does your gas furnace need cleaning?

Cleaning is a regular task for proper gas furnace maintenance. Click here for a step by step guide to properly cleaning a gas furnace.

6. When was the last time you checked the tension belt?

If your gas furnace is running loudly and you can’t seem to figure out why the tension belt may be a possible cause.

7. Have you checked the pilot light?

If the pilot light is out the furnace will not work, therefore make sure the pilot light is lit and working properly. The pilot light should be a deep hot blue, but if it is another color then it is not working properly.

8. When was the last time you oiled the motor?

Downspouts

Home Hints: Add a 6 foot long downspout extensions to your downspouts.

A 1 inch rainfall drops about 650 gallons of water on an average roof and your downspouts concentrate all that water in only a few spots. If dumped too close to the house the water will undermine your foundation causing it to leak, shift or crack-very expensive fix. Downspout extensions will prevent most major problems including wet basements, cracked foundation walls, and termites and carpenter ant infestations.